A tour from Ciciliano to Poli, following in Saint Eustace’s footsteps.

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The Path and the Ara della Croce

A path from the charming village of Ciciliano, nestled in the picturesque Giovenzano Valley, will take you to the revered Shrine of Mentorella, located on the Monti Prenestini.

The path is an ancient trail that winds through a lush forest of hop hornbeam, downy oak, manna ash, and field and sycamore maple. Take in the fragrant scent of nature, which comes alive with vibrant wildflowers in the spring. Listen to the tranquil sound of spring water, mountain streams, and cascading waterfalls. As you climb higher, you will come across remnants of ancient fortifications that have been worn by time, amidst dense woods of Turkey oaks and beech trees. The trail takes you to the Ara della Croce, which was once used for threshing wheat. At an altitude of 900 meters, it may be hard to imagine this area being cultivated; however, every inch of land was utilized in the past to sustain local communities. The name of this place is derived from a wooden cross, which marks a significant event depicted on a 12th-century wooden tablet, preserved in the Shrine of Mentorella.

The Vulturella, then the Mentorella

Discover the history behind the name Mentorella, derived from Volturella (Vulture/Griffin) and the cliff on which the Shrine of the Virgin Mary stands. It is said that these large birds used to nest in this area. A visit to the Sanctuary is an opportunity to experience a serene and beautiful location, with a panoramic view that will take your breath away. Pope John Paul II was known to be a frequent visitor, attesting to its peaceful and picturesque qualities!

The Roman General who became a Saint and the Miracle of the Deer

Let us return to the event that occurred at the ‘Ara della Croce’. Legend has it that during a hunting trip, the Roman general Placidus had a remarkable vision. As he was about to hunt a beautiful deer, he saw the image of Christ between the animal’s horns, who spoke to him saying: “Placidus, why are you persecuting me? I am the Christ, whom you worship without knowing it (...)”. According to tradition, Placidus lived during the reign of Emperor Trajan, and was renowned not only for his military exploits in Asia Minor, but also for his merciful nature and charitable deeds towards the less fortunate. He was therefore a pagan, but a Christian in his behavior, albeit unconsciously. Placidus, after the miracle of the deer, converted to Christianity, changing his name to EUSTACE, meaning “abundant in grain” in Greek. His wife and children also converted along with him.

Stories of families and donations

But how did Placidus/Saint Eustace come to be hunting at the Mentorella? This is where the story becomes intriguing and complex!

According to popular tradition, Placidus, who belonged to the ancient and noble Ottavi family, who owned these lands. One of his descendants was Tertullus, a generous donor to the Benedictine monasteries of Subiaco and Cassino. Tertullus’ son, also named Placidus, became the first disciple of Saint Benedict. The Anicia family, who were related to them, also had connections to Saint Silvia, mother of Saint Gregory the Great. According to an apocryphal privilege (similar to what we would today call a fake news), these lands, including Monte della Vulturella, were granted to the Abbot of Subiaco, Honoratus, by the end of the 6th century.

Later on, Saint Eustace became a source of pride for several prominent families of the time, including the Pierleoni, Frangipane, and the Conti di Poli, Tuscolo, Anagni, and Segni.

Although there is no historical evidence, some ancient beliefs suggest that the Shrine of Mentorella was founded during the papacy of Sylvester I, who lived during the time of Constantine. The act of foundation is said to be depicted on the reverse side of a wooden panel, which is currently preserved in the Church of Mentorella.

The Benedictine monks left the Monastery of Vulturella in the late 13th century. It went through a series of ups and downs until the 17th century when FATHER ATHANASIUS KIRCHER, an extraordinary figure at the time, fell in love with the place and decided to take it under his personal care. But that’s a tale for another day...

 

The Conti di Poli family, Saint Eustace and the Festival of Hospitality

In the 13th century, the Conti di Poli family acquired the lands of Guadagnolo and, due to their familial connection to Saint Eustace, reinforced the legend of him being one of their esteemed ancestors.

To this day, Saint Eustace remains the patron saint of Poli. The Feast of Saint Eustace was established in 1633, following a concession from Cardinal Aldobrandini, at the request of Lotario II Conti, Duke of Poli, and his son Torquato, Duke of Guadagnolo.

On September 20th, the Feast of Saint Eustace is celebrated in Poli, with the highlight being the stage representation of the conversion of Placidus and a procession through the streets of the village. The following Sunday, the community comes together for the Festival of Hospitality, where locals compete to serve the best traditional dishes to all attendees. The “Le Donne del Vicolo” Cultural Association has been organizing the event since the late 1990s, making it another great reason to visit Poli and explore its charming alleys.